Guide to Formulating Pearlised Cream Face Wash


Many cream face washes are now seen in the market and not to doubt, they are one of the most popular forms of facial cleansers available. Look forward to these content as you keep reading.

1. Introduction to Cream Face Wash
2. Tips on Using Amino Acid Surfactants to Create Pearlised Cream Face Wash Without a Pearlescent Agent
3. Formulation Guide – Cream Face Wash with Potassium Cocoyl Glycinate

What Are Cream Face Washes?

The term cream face wash is quite self-explanatory and are implying that the cleanser has a creamy texture. This type of formula is gentler and more hydrating compared to its counterparts. Apart from cleansing the skin without stripping its protective barrier, they also deposit moisturizing ingredients, leaving the skin feeling clean and smooth. In short, they are the most nourishing way to cleanse your face. They are ideal for people with sensitive skin, dry skin and reaction-prone skin. Furthermore, their ability to keep the skin’s natural oil in place makes them suitable for people with acne-prone skin.

Most of them are:

Sulfate-free: Sulfates are harsh surfactants will worsen skin irritation and cause skin drying. Gentle cream face washes usually avoid sulfates like Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) or Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES). These surfactants are also known to be contaminated with 1,4-dioxane a probable carcinogen.

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Amino acid surfactants: Many products now use amino acid surfactants. Not only they are extremely mild to the skin, they are also naturally-derived and green.

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Read our article on Stricter Regulations on 1,4-Dioxane in Cosmetics

Hydrating ingredients: Most cream face washes incorporate emollients and humectants to replenish the skin’s moisture. Some common ingredients are glycerin, squalene and shea butter.

Cream face washes are created with the aim to be less irritating and hence most products have minimal or no fragrance at all.

Tips on Using Amino Acid Surfactants to Create Pearlised Cream Face Wash Without a Pearlescent Agent

Amino acid surfactants that are suitable to create pearlised cream face wash:

  1. Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate
  2. Potassium Cocoyl Glycinate
  3. Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate
Formulating tips (Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate)
  • Most formulations use around 25% of Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate
  • Alcohols can help to dispense or dissolve partial Lauroyl Glutamic Acid that was not neutralized. Poly alcohols can help to stabilize the cream.
  • Facial cream with Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate has low dropping point temperature and may turn into a liquid. Sodium chloride can be added to control and prevent cream disintegration.
  • Formulation requires other ingredients like emulsifier, secondary surfactant, stabilizer, alcohol etc
  • Look for pearly appearance to determine product stability
Formulating tips (Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate)
  • 25~60% Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate in liquid form (solid content around 30%)
  • NaCl content above 0.5% to 1.5%.
  • Suitable pH value is around 5.8~6.3
  • Formulation requires other ingredients like emulsifier, secondary surfactant, stabilizer, thickening agent etc

Formulation Guide - Cream Face Wash with Potassium Cocoyl Glycinate

Phase Material INCI Name Supplier % W/W
A Eversoft YCK100K Potassium Cocoyl Glycinate Sino Lion 30.0
Glycerin Glycerin 30.0
NaOH NaOH 3.0
Water Deionized Water 29.0
B Ethanol 96% Ethanol 8.0
C Nuosept 44 Sodium Hydroxymethylglycinate 0.2
D Citric acid (50%) Citric Acid q.s.


  1. Predisperse water with Sodium Hydroxide until homogeneous
  2. Add glycerin and continue mixing
  3. Add Eversoft YCK100K while heating and mixing at 70°C
  4. Cool to 40°C
  5. Add phase B, continue mixing until homogeneous
  6. Add phase C and cool to room temperature
  7. Add citric acid (50%) to adjust pH in 6-7, continue mixing with mixer

Product Appearance


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